If you’re anything like me, you like good, personal travel guides – not generic ones that you find on mainstream sites, but ones full of local recommendations of the best things to do, places to eat and where to find the best coffee in town. I therefore decided to put together a Berlin travel guide that only contains suggestions that I can personally vouch for, as well as tips on how to make the most of your time there.
Berlin for me was a constant stream of creative inspiration contained in one sprawling urban space. Everything from the way the neighbourhoods all differed vastly from one another, to the endless amount of characters that I encountered along the way delighted me to the extent that I now call Berlin one of my favourite cities in the world.
I really feel that Berlin can be anything you want it to be. If you’re a history buff, then you’ll delight in walking the streets where so many of Europe’s most game-changing events took place. If you love culture and the arts, you’re set with more than 200 museums and galleries to while away the hours in. If you love food, you’re in for a treat, with everything from Michelin-starred restaurants to food markets catering to all palates. If you want to shop, you’ll find designer wears, cutting-edge pop-up stores, vintage markets and Germany’s only ‘concept mall,’ Bikini Berlin. If you like to party, then this is the city for you, too – although I would have never known it during my stay, proving my initial point – Berlin can be whatever you want it to be.
So, here’s a selection of my favourite things to do, places to eat, and all things in between. My ultimate Berlin travel guide!
Where to Stay
First-time visitors to Berlin usually don’t venture far outside of Mitte, which is where the main tourist attractions such as the Brandenburg Gate, Reichstag and Museum Island, are located. And while I really love Mitte, I chose to stay in Prenzlauer Berg and I’m so happy that I did.
I heart PB
Prenzlauer Berg used to be located in what was East Berlin before the wall fell; today it’s heavily gentrified and full of hipsters pushing buggies. However, that doesn’t mean it’s devoid of charm – to the contrary. The place is full of amazing cafés and hidden shops waiting to be explored; I particularly love the area’s living room cafés, such as Wohnzimmer (see the where to drink section), where in the day you can have a coffee and read your book, and by night you can sip on cocktails. Some of my favourite restaurants were also in Prenzlauer Berg, and I just loved the local/residential feel to the place – I really got to experience a side to the city that I wouldn’t have had I stayed in Mitte.
East meets West – in more ways than one
The area is also extremely well connected by trams and the metro to Mitte (you can be there in 20 minutes) and the rest of the city, that you don’t feel like you’re far away from the action. If you’re looking for a place that’s laid-back, full of charm and quieter than ‘younger’ areas such as Kreuzberg (and yet, by no means ‘dead’), then this is for you. I highly recommend it for solo female travellers such as myself.
I stayed at this Airbnb and recommend it – I felt at home instantly and Eva, my host, was very helpful.
For more on other areas of Berlin, check out this guide from The Culture Trip.
My Favourite Attractions and Things to Do
There’s SO much to do in Berlin – I was there a month and still didn’t manage to go through my entire bucket list. However, I put a good dent in it, and here are the things I think you should definitely not miss:
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
I visited the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe three times when I was Berlin (yes, every time a friend came to visit) and it was hands down the most emotive place that I experienced in the city. The exhibit, which is a memorial to all the Jews who lost their lives during the Holocaust, consists of 2,711 concrete slabs that vary in height. It’s said that the design is meant to evoke an uneasy, confusing atmosphere – this is certainly something I also felt when I meandered the slabs. There’s also a visitor’s centre that’s worth checking out.
It’s difficult to explain the impact you feel when you’re there
Mitte, entrance is free.
Jewish Museum
The Jewish Museum in Berlin is one of the largest Jewish museums in Europe and documents German-Jewish history over two millennia. This place is worth a visit for the art installations alone. I talk about the Fallen Leaves exhibition – a room full of thousands of open-mouthed faces cut out from iron plates – in this blog post on Berlin.
Fallen Leaves exhibit at the Jewish Museum
As someone who wasn’t too clued up on Jewish history and the nuances of the religion, I found this to be really informative. You can easily spend the whole day here if you take the time to go through all the exhibitions.
Kreuzberg, entrance costs €8 (€3 for an audio guide – must use some ID as a deposit).
The Green Market
One of my favourite events in Berlin was The Green Market, which sadly only takes place four times a year. If you happen to be in town when it’s on, though, it’s definitely worth checking out, especially if you’re veggie. The two-day affair is completely dedicated to vegan living and food – there are stalls selling everything from jewellery to plants, live music, and, of course, loads of food to try, from vegan doughnuts through to vegan doner kebabs (go with an empty belly).
The Green Market
This place is firmly off the beaten track – you’ll only find locals whiling their weekends away here. My idea of a great day out.
Friedrichshain, entrance costs €2.
Street Food auf Achse
Continuing with the theme of food (shocking, I know), Street Food auf Achse was a favourite hang out of mine on Sunday afternoons. Every Sunday, in the courtyard of what was an old brewery, food trucks pull up and serve everything from Ramen burgers through to Cuban fare. The vans change every weekend, meaning that you get to try all kinds of different things every time you go. I particularly liked the van that was selling amazing Negroni and prosecco cocktails. They were lethal and made the ten-minute walk home a little…blurry.
Prenzlauer Berg, entrance is free.
The East Side Gallery
Everything to do with the GDR fascinates me – from the secret police (Stasi) to the Berlin Wall – from both an anthropological and a psychological perspective. I never fail to be amazed at the things we’re capable of doing to each other, which is one of the reasons I was so drawn to Berlin – I had read so many books on its history that I just needed to go and walk the streets and soak up the past for myself.
The East Side Gallery is a 1.3km long stretch of what used to be the Berlin Wall – it’s now a memorial for freedom, and the concrete that used to divide people is now covered in 105 paintings by artists from all over the world. Definitely worth a look, but try and go during the week when there are less selfie-obsessed tourists around. You may recognise the most famous painting:
The infamous kiss
Friedrichshain, entrance is free.
Stasi Museum
Continuing with the theme of the GDR, the Stasi Museum was another highlight of my time in Berlin. The museum is located in what used to be the headquarters of the Stasi until 1990 when demonstrators took over and secured the historic site. Here you’ll now find a fascinating insight into the extent to which the secret police watched over people in the GDR – it is believed that by 1989 the Stasi relied on 500,000 to 2,000,000 collaborators as well as 100,000 regular employees, and it maintained files on approximately 6,000,000 East German citizens—more than one-third of the population. Crazy.
Items that had hidden cameras in them and were used by the Stasi
Lichtenberg, entrance costs €6.
Neues Museum
This was definitely my favourite museum in Berlin – I could have spent the full day there had hunger not bitten. Located on Museum Island – a collection of five world-renowned institutions – Neues contains a large collection of Egyptian and prehistory and early history collections (there’s even a full room on Cyprus!). The highlight is the iconic bust of the Egyptian queen Nefertiti – seeing that was definitely a ‘wow’ moment. Sadly, you’re not allowed to take pictures of it.
The Cyprus room at the Neues Museum
And it’s not just the collections that impress here; the museum was bombed so badly during World War II that it was abandoned until the 1980s, and when restoration work took place in 2003, the scars – bullet holes, mainly – weren’t patched over, rather they were left and incorporated into the design. This makes even ‘experiencing’ the building a highlight of visiting.
Tip: Avoid going during public holidays or weekends (and if you do, get there early) to avoid horrendous queues.
Mitte, entrance costs €12. If you’re planning on visiting a number of museums in Berlin, it’s worth getting a museum pass. See the ‘other’ section for details.
Pergamon Museum
Another highlight for the culture buffs among you is the impressive Pergamon Museum, which is just behind Neues. This is Berlin’s most frequently visited museum, and has an impressive collection of classical treasures and striking reconstructions of archeological buildings, such as the Pergamon Altar of Zeus (utterly amazing!) and the Professional Way of Babylon. There are three main collections – the Collection of Classical Antiquities, the Middle Eastern Museum and the Museum of Islamic Art.
Mitte, entrance costs €12.
Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg is known as one of Berlin’s hippest neighbourhoods, and if you’re looking to get away from the main touristy attractions, I recommend heading here, soaking up the vibe and exploring all of the amazing boutiques and cafés. It’s a bit rough around the edges at night, especially if you’re not sure where you’re going, so it’s best to explore in the day.
Tiergarten
Tiergarten is Berlin’s most popular inner-city park (it’s what Central Park is to New York), and if you have some extra time it’s worthwhile grabbing a coffee and taking a stroll around. Here you’ll find locals having picnics, jogging or simply soaking up the sun (weather permitting). I loved it!
And, of course, this being Germany there are also two great beer gardens here in which to quench your thirst once you’ve walked around for a while you’re done napping on a picnic blanket. For details, click here.
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church
I just happened to come across the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church while walking around, and it ended up being one of the most interesting things I saw Berlin. The original church that was located here was built back in the 1890s, but was badly damaged during a World War II bombing. Post war, the church was due to be knocked down to make way for a new structure, however, Berliners protested in favour of integrating the ruins into the new church design (did I mention I LOVE Berliners?).
It’s eerie, isn’t it?
The church’s damaged tower looks eerie in the midst of all the buildings that surround it, but serves as a stark reminder of the horrific realities of war; I got goosebumps just looking at it. Inside there’s a small museum that’s worth a look, too.
Charlottenburg, entrance is free.
RAW Tempel
RAW is a cultural centre and home to a number of different projects relating to music, social and political activities, underground clubbing, concerts, the arts and the aforementioned The Green Market. The complex used to be a railway maintenance works station and it’s so worth checking it out for all the street art and interesting-looking warehouses – so very Berlin. As you make your way around you’ll find everything from an indoor skateboarding rink to art galleries and an indoor swimming pool. Great for photo opportunities.
An alleyway at Raw Tempel
By night, there are a bunch of clubs to explore.
Friedrichshain, entrance is free.
Other Places of Note
Brandenburg Gate
Iconic historical site. Full of tourists, but it’s worth seeing it lit up at night. Mitte, entrance is free.
My idea of hell by day, but by night it’s beautiful
Reichstag
I didn’t manage to go here, unfortunately, but I’m told by people who have been that’s it’s worth it so I thought I’d include it. The Reichstag is now the seat of German parliament; from its landmark glass dome you can see both impressive views of the city and inside the parliament in session (if you happen to be there when it’s on).
Mitte, entrance is free.
Topography of Terror
If you have an interest in the batshit crazy things that Hitler and his cronies got up to, this is the place for you. I found it to be pretty basic, however, as I had already read a tonne of books on the subject beforehand. Worth a look, though.
Mitte, entrance is free.
Topography of Terrors is located what was the Gestapo HQ in Hitler’s day.
Flea Market at Mauerpark
Once just a local haunt, this flea market is now firmly on the beaten track, as droves of tourists descend every Sunday to experience a slice of Berlin life. However, as with many popular attractions, it’s a victim of its success, as it just felt like any other tourist-flooded market to me. If you happen to be in the area during the weekend, though, it’s worth having a look around. I got to try salep – a hot, thickened milky Ottoman drink – there, after all (it’s yummy).
Prenzlauer Berg, entrance is free.
Mauerpark Flea Market
Where to Eat
Rosa Caleta
When I think back to all the meals I had in Berlin, the one I had at Rosa Caleta comes straight to mind and my taste buds tingle and then ask me when we can go back (soon, my friends. Soon). Fun fact: I’m a big fan of Jamaican food, so when I read about a place that not only serves Jamaican food, but that serves vegetarian Jamaican food, I knew I had to get myself there. And it did not disappoint – everything from the corn bread they give you to nibble on before your food arrives, to the mind-blowing jerk tofu was delicious. They also have an extensive cocktail menu that I enjoyed making my way through. When I’m back in Berlin, this will be the first place I’ll dine in.
My taste buds miss you…
Laid back/casual, mid-range price. Vegetarian friendly. Great for dinner.
Kreuzberg, website.
Chutnify
It’s hard to find decent Indian food in Berlin, so if you’re craving an authentic taste of India while you’re in town there’s only one place you need to try – Chutnify. The menu mainly focuses on southern Indian cuisine (dosas etc), and is vegetarian/vegan. I had the vegetarian thali – it was SO good.
The channa masala was so good!
Laid back/casual, mid-range price. Vegetarian and vegan friendly. Great for lunch and dinner.
Prenzlauer Berg, website.
DuDu
Ah, DuDu – this was definitely one of my favourite restaurants in town (George Clooney loves to dine there – I love him, so if it’s good enough for George…). Japanese-Vietnamese fusion food is the name of the game here; the sushi is phenomenal (the salmon and avocado roll is particularly good) and looks oh so pretty on the plate. I also enjoyed the vegetarian curry.
Laid back/smart casual, mid-range price. Some vegetarian and vegan options, including vegetarian sushi. Great for lunch and dinner.
Mitte, website.
Babel
Babel serves up simple, tasty platters of Lebanese goodness, and therefore deserves a place in my Berlin Travel Guide. Their falafel is DELICIOUS and had me missing the Middle East (try the falafel sandwich if you’re looking for an on the go snack). If you have company, order a vegetarian platter – that’s all you need as they’re HUGE.
Halloumi and falafel and other vegetarian goodness – what’s not to love?
Laid back/casual, low price. Vegetarian friendly. Great for dinner, but tends to get overcrowded.
Prenzlauer Berg, website.
Umami
Berlin is full of Vietnamese restaurants, much to my delight – I miss Vietnam and I definitely miss its glorious food. I discovered Umami towards the end of my time in Berlin, which is a shame as I really liked the food there. I also fell in love with a drink called Salty Pearl – pickled lime with herbs, salt, lemon leaves and honey. I was ill at the time and this totally hit the spot – and it was non-alcoholic!
Umami goooood
Dishes of note include Angkor Wat’s Midday (seitan, tofu, stir fried with veggies and rice noodles) and Monk’s Lunch (lemongrass-marinated seitan wrapped in seaweed, and caramelised in soy sauce and garlic, served in a rice pot).
Smart casual, mid-range price. Vegetarian and vegan friendly. Great for lunch and dinner. Seating outside is perfect for people watching!
Prenzlauer Berg, website.
Allan’s Breakfast Club
If you’re in the Prenzlauer Berg area and are looking for a good brunch spot, then this is the place to be! I loved it here, and the guy who owns it (you guessed it: Allan) makes you feel incredibly welcome from the minute you walk in. The name of the game is Aussie-inspired brunch (and the Australian breakfast/brunch game is strong), so expect everything from eggs Benedict (served with a cured salmon that’s made in-house and is delicious), to Middle Eastern favourite shakshuka (first time I tried it was here and I loved it) and good ol’ avocado on toast (never gets boring). They also serve a mean flat white and Bloody Marys for those of you who want to get your weekend off to the right start.
Best brunch in town
Highly-recommended place.
Casual, mid-range price. They have a selection of vegetarian dishes, too, as well as gluten-free bread. Great for dinner and brunch.
Prenzlauer Berg, website.
Anne Blume
My other favourite breakfast/brunch place, Anne Blume is something of Berlin institution, and happened to be just a ten-minute walk away from my apartment. I’ve never been to Paris, but I imagine breakfast there to be like this – sitting out on the street, people watching while munching on croissants and a truckload of cheese. And that’s what you get at Anne Blume. Their mixed platters are what you’ll find plastered all over Instagram – I used to have the vegetarian one, that came complete with a variety of cheeses, fruits, crepe roles, and bread. SO good. Totally worth the trip there even if you’re not staying in PB.
ALL the cheese
Casual, mid-range price. They have both vegan and vegetarian options. Great for breakfast and brunch.
Prenzlaeur Berg, website.
Chipps
My favourite weekend brunch spot in Mitte, this is where I’d head when I fancied a mimosa with my eggs* (*I always want a mimosa with my eggs). The place is located in an area that is busy during the week thanks to all of the government buildings that surround it, but on the weekend it’s quiet and reminds me of the financial district in London on Sundays. I love it when cities are eerily quiet.
Two of my favourite things!
They have an extensive breakfast menu (and with names like Walk of Shame, what’s not to love?) and great coffee. Did I mention they serve mimosas?
Smart casual, mid-range price. They have both vegan and vegetarian options. Great for breakfast and brunch during the weekends. During the week they are famous for their vegetarian menu – I didn’t get to try it out, though.
Mitte, website.
There are so many more places I could mention, so I’ll be putting together a food guide to Berlin soon!
Where to Drink (and Work!)
CK Coffee
As a remote worker type person, I always sniff out the best coffee shops in town. If you make a damn good flat white, have great WiFi, and comfortable seats, you’ll win me over. Better yet, throw in really friendly staff and I’m yours forever. Enter CK Coffee. They serve, in my opinion, the best flat white in Berlin (from the places I’ve tried) – it was so aromatic, creamy and yummy, if there were a pool of it I’d jump right in.
Work with a side order of matcha latte
Coffee and great Wi-Fi aside, what really made it stand out were the members of staff. When you arrive alone in a new city, you really appreciate it when you find people who smile and make the effort to ask you how your day is going. If I was having a rubbish morning or simply wanted to be surrounded by nice people, this is where I’d go. It was my second home in Berlin.
If you’re looking for a place to work, CK Coffee is a good choice – I never had difficulty getting a seat, unlike in many other similar places in the city.
Prenzlauer Berg, website.
Wohnzimmer
This place is so very ‘Berlin’ – I mean, where else in the world can you have coffee and cake by day and drink cocktails and chain smoke by night, all in a space that looks like your grandma’s living room?
The coffee is decent and cheap, and they have WiFi. When I was there, there were friends chatting, people reading their books, and a few people working – it’s a cosy space in which to get stuff done in. The staff are charmless, but that’s okay – it’s part of the experience.
Prenzlauer Berg, website.
Pêle-Mêle
I was introduced to this place by some fellow bloggers and it didn’t disappoint. They serve decent coffee and there are plenty of delicious vegan dishes to try out – their filled bagels are particularly yummy. The staff are nice, too. All in all, a lovely place in which to work or have a quick pitstop if you’re in the area.
Neukölln, website.
And Where To Drink Something A Little Stronger
The Green Door
While I was in Berlin, I mostly only drank when I was out having a meal with someone, or back at the apartment (seriously – my place was so conducive to wine and deep chats!), but I did get to spend some time in The Green Door, which is a ‘secret’ (not really) speakeasy bar in Schöneberg. The front door is, you guessed it, green, and you have to ring a bell in order to enter. You then find a cosy, retro 70s haven. The cocktail menu is extensive, and the drinks are good (read: strong). Definitely worth a visit for a night cap or several.
Schöneberg, website.
Where to Shop
I’m not a big shopper (I get bored and hungry within half an hour), but I do like stumbling across interesting little shops (as opposed to walking around clinical malls – Dubai, I’m looking at you) and buying souvenirs and gifts. Berlin has so many cute little stores. One of my favourites was Schee, which sells homeware, gifts, cards, and the most beautiful arty posters by independent artists that you can frame (I bought one that says Shine On – can’t wait to have a wall to hang it on!).
I love Schee!
Bikini Berlin is billed as Germany’s first ‘concept mall’ and features local fashion brands as well as temporary pop-up stores – I bought some great little gifts from these shops.
Bikini Berlin
How to Get Around
Berlin has the most amazing public transport system and it’s very reasonably priced. I used to walk a great deal because I find it’s the best way to discover new places and really get a feel of a city, but when I needed to get somewhere that was far in a short space of time I discovered that I was never any more than 25 minutes away on either a tram or the U-Bahn (essentially, the tube).
Tram lines in Berlin
Here’s a good roundup of some of the ticket options that are available to you. I personally used to buy four-trip tickets, and use them as and when I needed them. If you plan on using public transport a lot on certain days, it’s worth getting the day pass. I also recommend you download the BVG mobile app, which helps you to plan your journey. You can also buy tickets through it – so easy!
Note: every time you buy tickets from the station, make sure you validate the one you’re using for that trip (the machines are right next to the ones from which you buy the tickets). If you don’t validate them and you get caught by an inspector, you’ll be fined. Tickets that you buy onboard the trams are already validated.
Other Tips and Suggestions
Museum Pass
If, like me, you’re a bit of a culture vulture then I highly recommend you buy the three-day museum pass. For €24,00 you get access to most of the city’s public museums and galleries, including the Pergamon Museum, Neues Museum and Jewish Museum, all of which I mentioned earlier. I bought mine outside the Neues Museum, but you can also pre-buy online. For more information, click here.
Museum opening times and days
I noticed that a lot of the museums I wanted to visit weren’t open on Mondays or Tuesday, so always make sure that you check opening times/days on their websites.
My last sunset in Berlin…for now
Like This? Pin It!
1 Comment